After 15 years at the helm of The Freemasons Wiswell, a celebrated institution of Manchester's dining scene, Steven Smith's move to KAJI marks a bold new chapter. Here, fire-led Japanese fusion meets global influences, redefining Manchester’s high-end dining experience. In this exclusive conversation with The Knife, we delve into the creative evolution behind KAJI, the power of open-fire cooking, and how this intimate Japanese experience is reshaping the city’s food scene.
After 15 years at The Freemasons, what inspired you to pivot to Japanese fusion cuisine at KAJI?
After an incredible 15 years at The Freemasons, KAJI presented the perfect opportunity to push boundaries and do something completely different. Innovation has always been at the heart of my cooking, and this was the next natural step — a chance to challenge myself, embrace new techniques, and explore a globally inspired approach while still honouring the craftsmanship and precision I value.
You’ve been known for championing British produce. How do you integrate it into KAJI’s globally inspired menu?
The philosophy remains the same — sourcing the very best local and sustainable ingredients. The difference lies in how we prepare them. At KAJI, we take premium British produce and apply Japanese and global cooking techniques, enhancing rather than altering its natural quality. The approach may be different, but the commitment to exceptional ingredients is unwavering.
What excites you most about cooking over coal-fired grills, and how does it enhance the flavours of your dishes?
There’s simply no better way to cook than over fire. The primal connection between flame and food brings out deep, complex flavours, intensifies natural sweetness, and adds a depth of smokiness that can’t be replicated any other way. At KAJI, we harness this to elevate every dish, ensuring bold, unforgettable flavours in every bite. After all, who doesn’t love the magic of cooking over flames?
KAJI’s sushi menu fuses Japanese, Southeast Asian, Brazilian, and Peruvian flavours. Can you share the process of developing these unique combinations?
Our sushi chefs come from incredibly diverse culinary backgrounds, and it’s their collective expertise that allows us to create something truly unique. We draw inspiration from their knowledge, blending traditional Japanese techniques with vibrant global flavours to create something unexpected yet harmonious. It’s about honouring tradition while embracing creativity, resulting in sushi that feels both familiar and completely new.
Omakase is a deeply personal dining journey. How do you approach crafting a bespoke menu for just eight diners per service?
Omakase is all about trust — it’s a chef’s journey, showcasing the finest ingredients available on the day. We don’t overcomplicate things; instead, we let the quality of the produce shine, curating an experience that feels intimate, interactive, and deeply connected to the moment. At its core, omakase is a tasting menu, but it’s delivered in a way that makes every diner feel like they’re on a one-of-a-kind culinary adventure.
If you had to pick one dish that defines KAJI, what would it be and why?
If I had to pick just one, it would have to be koji aged Herdwick lamb rack. It embodies everything KAJI stands for — bold flavours, exceptional technique, and a fusion of cultures that come together in a way that feels exciting yet perfectly balanced.
Your Chef’s Table offers an intimate, high-end experience. What can diners expect from this, and how does it differ from the main menu?
The Chef’s Table is all about exclusivity and immersion. It offers guests a front-row seat to the craft, with dishes prepared right in front of them, allowing for a deeper connection to the ingredients, techniques, and the story behind each plate. It’s a high-energy, interactive experience that goes beyond dining — it’s a journey. While the main menu is designed for sharing and discovery, the Chef’s Table is a more curated, tailored experience with a focus on precision and storytelling.
How does KAJI fit into Manchester’s evolving food culture, and what makes it stand out from other high-end restaurants in the city?
Manchester’s food scene is constantly evolving, and KAJI brings something entirely new to the table. It’s not just about exceptional food — it’s about the energy, the atmosphere, and the way we seamlessly blend high-end dining with an interactive, social experience. We’re taking global inspiration and delivering it through a fire-led, Japanese-inspired lens, all while embracing the city’s love for bold, exciting concepts. It’s refined yet vibrant, serious about food yet completely unpretentious.
KAJI incorporates state-of-the-art technology, from the Coravin wine system to its sound and visuals. How does tech enhance the dining experience?
Technology at KAJI isn’t just about innovation for the sake of it — it’s about elevating every element of the experience. The Coravin system allows us to offer fine wines by the glass, ensuring every pour is as fresh as the first. Our immersive audio-visual setup enhances the atmosphere, shifting seamlessly from an intimate dinner setting to a high-energy late-night experience. Everything is designed to heighten the senses and create an unforgettable journey from start to finish.
With live DJs and a high-energy atmosphere, how do you balance nightlife elements with maintaining a world-class dining experience?
The key is in the transitions. KAJI starts as a sleek, sophisticated dining destination and gradually evolves into a more vibrant, high-energy space as the evening progresses. It’s about knowing when to turn up the tempo while still ensuring that the dining experience remains front and centre. Every element — from music curation to lighting — is carefully considered to create a seamless blend between exceptional food and an electric atmosphere.
How has your culinary philosophy evolved from your time at The Freemasons to leading KAJI?
At The Freemasons, my focus was on pushing the boundaries of British cuisine, celebrating the best of seasonal and local ingredients. At KAJI, that foundation remains, but now I’m embracing global influences and fire-led techniques in a way that feels fresh and exciting. It’s still about delivering the highest quality possible, but now through a completely different lens — one that’s bold, dynamic, and constantly evolving.
What’s next for KAJI? Are there any upcoming innovations, seasonal menu changes, or expansion plans on the horizon?
We’re always looking ahead. Seasonal menus will continue to evolve, bringing new and exciting dishes to the table. We have some incredible guest chef collaborations lined up, and we’re exploring ways to expand the KAJI experience, whether through pop-ups, special events, or new concepts. The journey is just beginning, and there’s so much more to come.